I've realized that fog is a constant here in the early mornings. I love fog but it's hard to know how to dress.
We are docked in Skagway and I took this from our balcony before sunrise. Beautiful hey?
The fog starting to lift at the very same spot. It seems like the fog just blows in and out every few minutes. This is the part that makes it hard to decide what to wear off the ship.
This is Suzanna. She watched me drawing and then told me she wanted to draw, had felt pens in her cabin but couldn’t get started. I gave her an assignment, wrote it up for her and gave her two blank postcards. I’m hoping that she sends me a photo.
I’ve started to have breakfast with breakfast dessert. As I look at this photo I think its a heart attacking on a plate. Hey, it’s only seven days.
Out on land. Still some fog.
This fish ladder is built on reclaimed land. So is the cruise ship pier.
We started our time in Skagway walking The Pullen Creek and the railway tracks. Harriet Smith Pulled arrived in Mooreville in 1897 after having left her husband and four children in Washington. She had $7 in her pocket. She was determined to make a fresh start and be reunited with her children. She got hired by Moore almost immediately to cook for his pier building crew. Her first entrepreneurial venture was apple pie. When not working for Moore she collected cans and beat them into pie pans and began selling apple pie to the many gold hunters in town. She soon was able to start a freight business using the seven horses she brought from her Washington farm. Her next venture was to buy Moore's three story house in Moore's Park and convert it into The Pullen House Hotel. Ever resourcful she started to save memorabilia as the Gold Rush started to wane. She became an influential Skagway citizen and deserves having a creek named after her.
We stopped to use and admire the parks new bathrooms.
And noticed the fog rolling in as we walked across the park towards the creek.
The park has lots of informational signs and we were happy to be able to confirm the types of plants we saw along the way.
I don't actually know what this is and it wasn't on the sign. The wrong one to start with?
Western Hemlock This grows in the forest near our place and I've had tea made with it. It was also used to dye spruce root baskets and tanning hides red. It's easy to recognize because it has tiny cones.
We didn't see any salmon but this is a view point next to a very nice picnic shelter on the creek.
Snowberry is often used as an ornamental, it was once used as a medicinal as an anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer treatment. It required real knowledge as the berries are toxic. Snowberries were widely used by indigenous people, chewing the leaves to use as a poltice on cuts and rashes, eyewash, and many other things.
The train is not running just now due to a rock slide. We heard that tours on the train are expected to start up again next tourist season.
Well, who knew? I guess it shouldn't be a surprise as most of the town is in a valley at the oceans edge and we are on the Ring of Fire. Tsunami can start in Japan and make their way all the way across the ocean.
The Shaggy Mane is edible when its picked young but the most interesting thing I know about it is that when it has released its spores it turns black and dissolves itself. It's beautiful no matter what.
Stephen is actually looking for matches in the hope of building a fire. Turned out it was private property. Good thing they hadn’t stashed some matches.
We were just walking around a more residential area when we came across this sign. Free. What is free? No hints but maybe the locals know.
This was the first building William Moore built on his 160 acre claim in 1887. It was an all purpose building; home, office, warehouse, whatever was needed. The Moore family eventually lost most of their claim but Moore himself was convinced that they would be so important that a museum would be made from their next home and in fact, what is left of the homestead is now part of the Klondike Gold Rush Historical Park that was established in 1977.
Shagagwei was primarily a Tlingit village and hunting ground when Moore arrived in 1887 they started calling the place Harrisburg but no really liked Harris much and renamed the place Mooresville. It was a very small community but Moore had high hopes for the place and made his claim. Ten years later the population had risen to between 8,000 and 10,000, many of which were "stampeders" expecting to make their fortune from the Gold Rush. When Skagway incorporated in 1900 a census was taken and it had 3,117. By 1904 Moore's son Ben and his Tlingit wife were living in this 1.5 story house with their three children. It was a marriage that was one of economic advantage for both parties. It ensured that Moore would have a strong relationship with the Tlingit.
It was a bit surprising to me that a sign like this would be required for the Moore House Museum so I had to look up if Alaska was an open carry state. I'm not sure why I was surprised that it was.
The Moore's had gone to quite a lot of trouble to make this home Victorian in flavour. Tlinget-sai-yet was born to an aristocratic and wealthy Tlingit family. When she became Ben Moore's wife they kept close ties with her family but in town she was called Minnie Elizabeth Moore and lived a primarily EuroAmerican life style.
I asked the person working in the Moore Museum where to get stamps and mail a letter. She sent me down the alley saying that I could see a few more historical things on my way. This building is in the process of being restored and I believe it was one of Moore's warehouses.
The fog is rolling in again.
And rolling out. There are a few murals in town and this is by far the most beautiful.
This is Molly Walsh. Its a tragic story… two men were interested in her, she married the wrong one. He shot her. Dead. The other never forgot her and unveiled this bust in 1930.
We arrived at the Skagway Museum but before we went in we found this beautiful spiders web. The only way I could get the web to show up was to ask Stephen to provide a black background. My original plan was to cut him out of the photo but this turned out much better. If you're interested the building in the back is the museum.
One of the first things you see when you come into the museum is this beautiful Duck Neck Skin quilt. It was made by Jennie Olsen Ramunssen who had come to Alaska as a missionary who lived in Yakutat. The family learned many survival skills from the Tlingit, including how to preserve the duck neck skin with salt. Jennie and her family moved to Skagway in 1914 and she helped establish the Skagway Museum in 1961.
Back outside the museum we had a close look at the train and took some photos of the many flowers still in bloom. As you can see the sun is back out.
According to this guide you are supposed to shimmy across a Skagway street.
There were a few tours still making their way around Skagway. Many of the stores are closed with signs that say "Closed for the season: Even though there are at least two more cruise ships coming to town it seems many locals traditionally close September 28th.
We walked around the more residential part of town looking at people's yards and gardens then we dropped into the Visitors Center, watched a video and made jokes with the same person who was manning the Moore House Museum. Then I asked her where we could learn more about Tlingit culture. She was sweet and said I could contact the Tlinget Council by phone and they might be able to help. She suggested that there was a sign that talked about Tlingit language but we had already seen it. Then she surprised me by saying that they were supposed to tell the history of the Gold Rush and she didn't really know much about the Tlingit.
This sign is one of the few things in town that are really about the history of the place before 1886. Even when we saw objects that were Tlingit they often didn't't have very good information. Things are changing but slowly.
I needed some small change to get on the shuttle bus so I went to get a snack and break $100 bill. I was surprised when she said sure and pulled out a special pen. It turns out that US bills have a special coating that won't let the pen leave a mark but if it's counterfeit it marks the bill. How cool is that? Maybe it will come to Canada. At any rate, I got change but couldn't find the shuttle so I decided to walk to the Historic Cemetery. Stephen decided to go back to the ship so I was on my own.